Buying

I ask every single borrower some version of the same question in our first conversation: “How much do you have to work with?” And almost every time, I get an answer like, “I’ve got $30,000 to play with.” Said with confidence. Said like it’s all going toward one thing. Here’s the question I always ask right back: is that $30,000 really all going toward your down payment? Because nine times out of ten, when we sit down and actually break it apart, the borrower hasn’t separated that number into what it actually needs to cover. And that’s where I have to slow things down and explain something most buyers have never had explained to them clearly before they got to my desk. Here’s the Mistake I See Constantly People say, “Well, how much do you want to put down?” And the borrower answers with their total savings, like it’s a single pile of money earmarked for one purpose. What you actually have to dissect is whether that $30,000 is all you have to play with, period, or whether that’s the number you assumed was your down payment before anyone told you there was more to the picture. This is one of the biggest misconceptions I run into, and it’s not because buyers are careless with money. It’s because nobody ever sat them down and explained that a home purchase isn’t a single expense. It’s two separate buckets of cash, and both of them need to be funded before you get the keys. The Two Buckets Nobody Explains Clearly Enough Bucket one is your down payment. This is your actual skin in the game, the equity stake you’re putting into the home on day one. Bucket two is your closing costs. This is a completely separate set of expenses required to actually complete the transaction, and it has nothing to do with how much equity you’re putting into the house. Most buyers walk in mentally combining these into one number, and then they’re surprised, sometimes uncomfortably close to closing day, when they realize their $30,000 needs to stretch across both. Let’s break down each bucket so you know exactly what you’re planning for. Bucket One: Your Down Payment, or “Skin in the Game” How much skin in the game you need depends on your loan program and your history as a buyer, and this is where I clear up a second misconception while we’re at it. Conventional, first-time buyer: 3% down. If you haven’t owned a primary residence in the past three years, you generally qualify as a first-time buyer again, even if you owned a home a decade ago. FHA: 3.5% down. A popular option, especially for borrowers with lower credit scores, but not actually the lowest down payment option out there, contrary to what a lot of people assume. Conventional, if you’ve owned a home in the past 3 years and you’re buying another primary residence: 5% down. On a $400,000 house, that’s the difference between $12,000 at 3% down, $14,000 at 3.5% down, and $20,000 at 5% down. Real differences, and worth understanding clearly before you assume you know which bucket size applies to you. Bucket Two: Your Closing Costs This is the bucket most buyers underestimate, or don’t know exists at all until it’s sitting in front of them on paper. Closing costs are a separate set of fees required to actually process and complete your loan and your purchase, and they show up regardless of how much or how little you’re putting down. Here’s what typically lives in that bucket: Attorney’s fee – depending on your state, you may need a real estate attorney involved in the closing. Title insurance – protects you and your lender against issues with the property’s title. Escrow of taxes – your lender is going to collect several months of property taxes upfront, usually four to five months’ worth, based on your annual tax bill divided by twelve, and hold it in an escrow account. Recording fee – the cost of officially recording the sale with your local government. Notary fee – for notarizing your closing documents. Appraisal – confirming the home’s value supports the loan amount. Bank underwriting fee – if applicable. A lot of times, as mortgage brokers, we’re able to wash this one out and absorb it on our end. That’s just one of the things a good broker does for their borrowers, but it’s not universal, so it’s worth asking about directly. None of these fees are optional add-ons or upsells. They’re standard parts of virtually every home purchase, and they add up to a real number, typically somewhere in the range of 2% to 5% of your loan amount, sometimes more depending on your state and the specifics of your transaction. Let’s Run the Actual Math, Because This Is Where It Gets Real Let’s go back to that borrower with $30,000 to play with. Say they’re buying a $400,000 house and qualify for the 3% conventional program, meaning their down payment bucket needs $12,000. Sounds simple so far, right? $30,000 minus $12,000 leaves $18,000 sitting there. But closing costs on that same loan might run somewhere between $10,000 and $15,000 once you add up the attorney’s fee, title insurance, the tax escrow, recording, notary, and appraisal. Bucket Estimated Cost Running Total from $30,000 Total cash available – $30,000 Down payment (3% of $400,000) $12,000 $18,000 remaining Closing costs (est.) $12,000-$15,000 $3,000-$6,000 remaining Recommended reserves held back $10,000-$15,000 Often a shortfall, not a surplus See how fast that $30,000 gets absorbed? And here’s a piece a lot of buyers forget entirely: you shouldn’t be spending your very last dollar to get to the closing table. You want reserves held back, sometimes $10,000 to $15,000 depending on your loan program and lender requirements, to cover the unexpected. A furnace that dies in month two. A moving truck that costs more than you budgeted. Life, generally, in a new house. So if someone tells me they have $30,000

Understanding the core difference can save you thousands. We break down when each option makes sense for your financial goals.